Biobased Scandinavian vegan leather based on forest and food side streams

Purpose and goal:

We verified the hypothesis, the TRL level first estimated to be around 2, as we produced an experimental demonstrator validated in the RISE lab tested by retailor, we finished at TRL 4. For MRL, we intended to move from MRL 1 to MRL 2, and we definitely increased the market potential to reach that. Although we did not perform a life-cycle analysis (not planned within this project scope), we did deliver a green and biobased product to evaluate by retailer and for comparison to traditional animal-based leather (thus we land between SRL 1+ and 2).

Expected results and effects:

We demonstrated that it is possible to use a combination of food and forest side streams (bark fibers and apple pomace) to produce a biobased leather-like films that can possibly compete in the future with existing non-sustainable leathers. The next step, reaching beyond this project scope, is to optimize formulations, enhance material properties and upscale our materials.

Fully biobased leather products are not commercially available today, and we believe that such products would be attractive on the fashion and furniture market and important to environment. Approach and implementation:

We explored various green additives (plasticizers, proteins, crosslinkers) and developed several dozens of formulations based on refined bark mixed with apple pomace. The materials were obtained by using a combination of all with carefully adjusted proportions. They were then characterized using standard methods to evaluate mechanical properties, water resistance, morphology, machine sewing ability, etc.

The properties of our materials were also compared with traditional animal-based leather. We also started evaluating the value chain for upscaling this process.